I’ve owned Marco Pierre White’s White Heat 25 for about a year and a half now. It was my first Michelin chef cookbook, my first glimpse into what can really be accomplished at home through the eyes of a 3-star professional, and the son of a bitch earned that accolade a year younger than I am while I write this article.
It seems silly, almost blasphemous for me to attempt something that a great like Marco conjured through the halls of time, redefining a French classic, escalope de salmon à l’oseille. How could I possibly compare, to size up to such an incredible master? Surely my attempt will fail! Surely I can’t make something, even through direction, as close as the master of masters could, on par with Escoffier, Bourdain, Keller, etc.
My self-esteem has always been the first to crumble, and for that reason, I sat on this book, with a lone bookmark at Escalope de Saumon–Escalope of Salmon with Basil–for over 400 days. And then, suddenly, after a bit of learning the past year and taking bigger chances, ultimately saying “fuck it, I’ll try again” when I fail recipes, I hit the ol’ Pierre White cookbook with a force, and realized that this recipe. At the same time, a classic is almost remarkably simple. “Yeah,” I thought, “I can do this one. Dinner for two!”
And so I set out to grab ingredients for the rest of the week, taking other recipes and prepping them, using this one as the week's headline. After a weekend of terrible gastrointestinal distress through bad beef burgers and way too much pizza–three meals in a row–I decided it’s time I start taking my cooking seriously again, and even more so that I start trying things that I was intimidated by early on.
Over the course of 45 minutes, I learned just how simple, easy, and delightful this recipe ends up coming out onto the plate. Using effort and diligence pays off here, and I’d recommend not taking any shortcuts or “it’ll be fine” on the presentation side; Cut the shallots smaller, and make sure the basil is very thinly julienned. Cook the salmon just enough: not too much, not too little.
With those simple tips, you too can make this a weekday staple. And I mean staple, as in breakfast, lunch and dinner. OK, maybe not breakfast, but you get the gist. It’s really easy and really good! If I can do it, you certainly can too. I’ve still got a lot to learn about getting a truly fine chop, mechanically. My kitchen is a bit sloppy, my mise were not quite en place, the heating could do a bit better and my nonstick probably could have been hotter. But I did it; I made something that I thought I’d never be good enough to create, and we delighted in the dish, the subtlety, the richness, the burst of flavor that is simultaneously varied and focused. I don’t know if I could have chosen a better Marco Pierre White dish to use as my first, but I am damn glad I chose this one. Maybe, one day, I’ll be able to share this joy with others as well.
Freeland Spirits Cask Straight Bourbon, UT cask
$57
ABV 57.5%
And to top off a really good meal, a bottle of white wine shared in damn good company, and an even more delightful bottle of cask strength bourbon to round out the evening. A “thinking with your palate” pick while buying cooking/drinking wines from the DABS today, the Freeland Cask Bourbon stood out both for price and bottle shape. Why the hell not, I’m a sucker for packaging after all.
Nose
Classically spicy, sugary, maraschino cherry and sweetcorn with leathery oak undertones.
Palate
Immediate sweetness that very, VERY quickly turns to a harsh, almost ashy burn. It’s not entirely disdainful like some higher proof bottles, but it is very abrupt and intense. Maybe a splash of orange citrus up front too.
Finish
Intense. Bold, spiced cinnamon and subtle vanilla, strong burn. Like a brilliant firework, it burns bright and fast: the intensity subsides quickly, and leaves you yearning for more.
Thoughts
There’s been a lot that has made this day spectacular, the meal and the whiskey included. But the most important factor has been that it was all authentic, it was all spontaneous, it was all tangible and real and alive. Coming down after a weekend of long runs, brutal stomach pain, and miserably hot weather, I was certainly primed to make the worst of this week. But I’ve taken it all in stride, and come out on top, and I’d like to think I was able to make that swap internally, and one of my absolute favorite outlets of creation is cooking. And writing about Whiskey. The whiskey, it was good! And if it is really limited, especially here in Utah, then fuck it. Buy a bottle! It’s well worth it.
7/10, solid price, a good feel, and excellent proof while standing unique. Value in a bottle.